shyam09
May 5, 12:36 AM
in december i managed to buy a booq taipan [i believe that's what it was called] and although it isn't the vyper i am def. pleased with the quality and durability. [its a sleeve btw]... i have to say booq products are no.1, very well made, and well worth the money. Booq Vyper to the MAXX!!!
danwilliams
Apr 22, 03:18 PM
I am not fluent in Perl but I do use Python at my work. I am mainly a C++ developer. I find Python easy to use and quite powerful for the things you listed. There are many 3rd party libraries that will help with most things you need to do. A SSH client called Paramiko was VERY helpful to me for logging into servers and transferring files and running commands. This site may help get you started with Python and Paramiko's SSH library.
http://jessenoller.com/2009/02/05/ssh-programming-with-paramiko-completely-different/
As for the file and string manipulations you listed, I find just doing a google search is helpful enough.
Just make sure you get a Python debugger if you go that way. I use Eclipse with Pydev. I am sure others may suggest a better debugger. It is adequate for my needs.
http://jessenoller.com/2009/02/05/ssh-programming-with-paramiko-completely-different/
As for the file and string manipulations you listed, I find just doing a google search is helpful enough.
Just make sure you get a Python debugger if you go that way. I use Eclipse with Pydev. I am sure others may suggest a better debugger. It is adequate for my needs.
rdowns
May 2, 03:26 PM
Why don't you go round all 3 apple stores in the city , then go around all the best buy stores and then some other tech stores.
There are 4 Apple Stores in Manhattah. :p
There are 4 Apple Stores in Manhattah. :p
8CoreWhore
Apr 22, 06:39 PM
400USD (it's worth more, but he'll believe that).
more...
iFiend
Apr 21, 10:44 AM
Or you could just wait and order a legit one from Apple in the coming days. Some rumors point to preorders for the white opening up today.
But if you still want to buy a used black one I'll sell you mine for the price of a non subsidized iPhone 4 ;)
But if you still want to buy a used black one I'll sell you mine for the price of a non subsidized iPhone 4 ;)
elohel
May 5, 11:53 PM
I honestly don't remember what website this popped up on, but Safari started downloading this MacSecurity.mpkg and it ran instantly and bypassed inputting my password? I couldn't really stop it
has anyone gotten this before? it took me to some webpage but I closed it
It said something about me being infected?
Am I going crazy? I didn't click anything(maybe by accident?) and yet this thing popped up, gave me a file and ran the installer without me being able to stop it lol wtf
can someone please explain, I think I'm missing something
has anyone gotten this before? it took me to some webpage but I closed it
It said something about me being infected?
Am I going crazy? I didn't click anything(maybe by accident?) and yet this thing popped up, gave me a file and ran the installer without me being able to stop it lol wtf
can someone please explain, I think I'm missing something
more...
PalmHarborTchr
Jan 2, 03:41 PM
No I am not.
Keebler
Mar 5, 09:56 AM
I am too new at CS5 to be of much help, but I wonder if this would be of any help to you (?):
a. Take a good quality RAW photo of the picture, and open this RAW image in Camera Raw as a Smart Object. See if you can adjust the area that is too light (left of the photo).
b. Now, double-click on the image shown in the Layers panel, which in turn will open a layer of the image in Camera Raw. Now adjust the dark side of the image, and then click on "Done." The result is two layers blended into one.
-------------
Thanks AlaskaMoose. I should have mentioned this is a negative. I would definitely try your method if it was a photo.
a. Take a good quality RAW photo of the picture, and open this RAW image in Camera Raw as a Smart Object. See if you can adjust the area that is too light (left of the photo).
b. Now, double-click on the image shown in the Layers panel, which in turn will open a layer of the image in Camera Raw. Now adjust the dark side of the image, and then click on "Done." The result is two layers blended into one.
-------------
Thanks AlaskaMoose. I should have mentioned this is a negative. I would definitely try your method if it was a photo.
more...
rdowns
Mar 6, 07:25 AM
This thread has multiple question marks in the title. Whatever shall we do?????
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1109929
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1109929
tuqqer
Dec 11, 04:40 PM
You won't believe this.
It was a bad wireless card.
Using brilliant deductive reasoning I finally thought, "this is either a badly seated Airport card, or just a downright bad card."
After unplugging/replugging the card in numerous times (disconnecting/connecting the little plug each time), just to be sure it was in fact seated well (which I'd done once before last week), I finally opened up my other Mac laptop (which uses the same identical card) and put it into this new iBook.
Damn. Lightening fast. I"M UP.
Just to check, I then plugged in this supposedly broken Airport card into my PowerBook, and sure enough: no signal. The card really is bad.
Why did the iBook work great while in the Apple Store in Cherry Creek? This is what initially had me think that it could not be a hardware problem. Then I realized: perhaps a Mac can get barely pick up a wireless signal even without the Airport card. Either that, or the card kinda/sorta/sometimes would work. And, I'll bet the signal strength in the Apple store was super strong, and got through even a semi-busted airport card.
That's the first time a problem has actually been the darn hardware in all my 14 years of Mac'ing. I will never again discount physical matter as the potential source of the glitch.
Criminy. I think I spend about 30-40 solid hours trying to figure this one out.
Yaaaaahoooooooooooooooooooooooooo.
It was a bad wireless card.
Using brilliant deductive reasoning I finally thought, "this is either a badly seated Airport card, or just a downright bad card."
After unplugging/replugging the card in numerous times (disconnecting/connecting the little plug each time), just to be sure it was in fact seated well (which I'd done once before last week), I finally opened up my other Mac laptop (which uses the same identical card) and put it into this new iBook.
Damn. Lightening fast. I"M UP.
Just to check, I then plugged in this supposedly broken Airport card into my PowerBook, and sure enough: no signal. The card really is bad.
Why did the iBook work great while in the Apple Store in Cherry Creek? This is what initially had me think that it could not be a hardware problem. Then I realized: perhaps a Mac can get barely pick up a wireless signal even without the Airport card. Either that, or the card kinda/sorta/sometimes would work. And, I'll bet the signal strength in the Apple store was super strong, and got through even a semi-busted airport card.
That's the first time a problem has actually been the darn hardware in all my 14 years of Mac'ing. I will never again discount physical matter as the potential source of the glitch.
Criminy. I think I spend about 30-40 solid hours trying to figure this one out.
Yaaaaahoooooooooooooooooooooooooo.
more...
SciFrog
Mar 19, 10:23 PM
Work Units.
WiiDSmoker
Feb 20, 05:16 PM
Think what you want people. But if Sony wins; it truly means you don't own any of the consoles you buy.
more...
FeaRThiS
May 6, 02:43 PM
How is this thread ridiculous? Is someone on here already tried any of those and it didn't work or did work. Perhaps they can share with us. Nothing ridiculous about it.
And you see, i got the answers for the replies above
Errrrm YES page 8 of the "When is the iPad 2 jailbreakcoming out?" (http://forums.macrumors.com/showpost.php?p=12491841&postcount=199) thread.
And you see, i got the answers for the replies above
Errrrm YES page 8 of the "When is the iPad 2 jailbreakcoming out?" (http://forums.macrumors.com/showpost.php?p=12491841&postcount=199) thread.
nanofrog
Apr 24, 09:32 PM
So I'm a freelance Editor/Motion Graphics guy with no real understanding of RAID Controller Cards, or how they work.
As of right now I have three 1TB drives inside my Mac Pro, RAIDed together (stripe 0) using the OS. No Raid card.
The drives are all 7200rpm from varying manufacturers. (not sure if this matters.)
My questions is; is it beneficial for me to get a RAID card to control these drives vs. leaving it to the OS to handle? Any suggestions for me?
Thanks.
2010 8-Core Mac Pro 2.4
14GB RAM
It all depends on the details of how you use the system (RAID is supposed to be configured to the specific usage, so there's no "one size fits all", though for narrowed usage patterns, you will see similarities).
I'd advise you to search out previous RAID threads (there's quite a few), and pay attention to the various questions asked, and get back to us with some answers). I'd also recommend you review Wiki's RAID page (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAID) (pay particular attention to the different levels).
If you're a paid professional, using a stripe set (RAID 0) is a disaster waiting to happen. Even with a backup, you'll spend a fair bit of time to perform a recovery when a disk dies (matter of when, not if), and this also means re-performing work that was done between the most recent backup and when the array failed (beyond replacing the bad disk and restoring all the backup files, which presumably <worst case>, will be multiples to return all the data you have from your backup media).
Glad to see you at least have some sort of backup with your current configuration. :)
Now if you go with a RAID card, you'll need to use enterprise grade drives for stability reasons (different recovery timings in the firmware than consumer models, which tend to be unstable as a result). Unfortunately, they're not as cheap (in fact, can be 2x as expensive as their consumer counterparts for the latest capacity).
Consumer disks are fine for backup purposes though, and this can save you a considerable amount of funds, particularly if your capacity requirements are high (i.e. eSATA card + Port Multiplier based external enclosure; example kit (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816111136&cm_re=tr4mp-_-16-111-136-_-Product)).
There are some inexpensive products that claim RAID 5, but be careful. Some are software based, which should never be used for this level (no solution to the "write hole issue" associated with parity based arrays). Others use very inexpensive hardware RAID controllers (aka RoC = RAID on a Chip). They're slow for primary usage, and is why they're cheap (compromise on performance vs. proper RAID cards).
If on a budget you could go with RAID-Z, it involves switching to the ZFS file system. RAID-Z1 apparently offers similar performance to RAID5. Read this thread (http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1135718) for further insight.
This can get complicated on the software end though, and not recommended for those that aren't comfortable with the additional complexity (patches for OS X or via VM), particularly for a DAS system (has more merit with NAS or SAN IMO).
So I'd stick with a 3rd party hardware RAID card, assuming this is actually needed, enterprise disks and any enclosures/mounting hardware necessary. Much simpler in terms of software (install the drivers, and any interface software that's required to access the card settings), and the hardware aspect isn't that difficult either.
I would get an SSD for the OS and use the 3x 7200rpm Disks in RAID5.
RAID5 is great for storing uncompressed video data and in your case would offer protection against a single drive failure.
Most cards don't deal with consumer grade disks very well (ATTO and Area definitely don't).
But consumer disks are fine for backup purposed (i.e via eSATA and PM enclosures) due to the lower duty cycle (where you can cut costs effectively, and not endanger the data).
or Just RAID5 with 3x HDD's and partition the RAID volume.
I wouldn't do this if both partitions are to be used simultaneously (i.e. primary data one one partition, scratch data on the other).
The most recommend cards right now are the Areca 6g 1880 series or the new ATTO 6G series. For your needs something like the ARC-1880-i SAS 6G RAID Controller would suffice if you don't plan to connect external RAID/Storage solution.
Those are the best recommendations as far as brand and series per. As to a specific model, it will depend on the specifics, particularly for growth (i.e 8 ports may be outgrown in under 3 years, so getting a card with sufficient ports to last that long would be cheaper in the long run - just add disks and enclosures as necessary).
Sorry should have been more clear (like I said I'm dumb) I have a 500GB Boot drive that lives independently from the (3) 1TB drives RAIDED together via the OS.
A separate boot disk is advisable, as you still have a working OS if the array goes down (allows you to access the card, use the browser to search for help, or deal with Support from the card manufacturer if needed).
And ALL data (3.5TB's) is backed up by an external 4TB Time Machine RAID (2 drives @ 2TB each)...which is connected via 2 eSATA cables via the eSATA PCI Card I bought from OWC...which I guess is actually RAIDed by the OS as well.
That backup solution is a RAID 0. The overall backup solution will almost certainly need to change in order to be sufficient for the primary storage pool you'll end up with.
Not sure what you are looking at, since 3 drives is sort of an odd combination. I have a 2009/2010 Mac Pro Nehalem, running the apple sas card for the 4 internal bays (yes I know they make adapters to use 3rd party cards), and the performance is fair, not great but fair. About 300Mb/s read/write with 4 WD Black edition drives (1tb each). Externally, running an Areca 1680x card, with a 8 drive ProAvio chassis, 8 SAS Seagate 15k7 drives (450GB) which gives close to 900MB/s. I have tried multiple cards over the years, nano and I have exchanged lots of posts/messages. Email/PM me with specific questions and I will try and help you. Beware of most of these 3rd party slot adapters/etc. they are more hassle than they are worth.
I've not heard or seen any issues with the MaxUpgrades kit.
As per Apple's card, I'm no fan of it, particularly due to the cost/performance ratio.
BTW, the OP only has 2 posts at the time of writting this, so returning a PM isn't possible yet (needs to have 5 posts IIRC). email would work if you have that enabled.
As of right now I have three 1TB drives inside my Mac Pro, RAIDed together (stripe 0) using the OS. No Raid card.
The drives are all 7200rpm from varying manufacturers. (not sure if this matters.)
My questions is; is it beneficial for me to get a RAID card to control these drives vs. leaving it to the OS to handle? Any suggestions for me?
Thanks.
2010 8-Core Mac Pro 2.4
14GB RAM
It all depends on the details of how you use the system (RAID is supposed to be configured to the specific usage, so there's no "one size fits all", though for narrowed usage patterns, you will see similarities).
I'd advise you to search out previous RAID threads (there's quite a few), and pay attention to the various questions asked, and get back to us with some answers). I'd also recommend you review Wiki's RAID page (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAID) (pay particular attention to the different levels).
If you're a paid professional, using a stripe set (RAID 0) is a disaster waiting to happen. Even with a backup, you'll spend a fair bit of time to perform a recovery when a disk dies (matter of when, not if), and this also means re-performing work that was done between the most recent backup and when the array failed (beyond replacing the bad disk and restoring all the backup files, which presumably <worst case>, will be multiples to return all the data you have from your backup media).
Glad to see you at least have some sort of backup with your current configuration. :)
Now if you go with a RAID card, you'll need to use enterprise grade drives for stability reasons (different recovery timings in the firmware than consumer models, which tend to be unstable as a result). Unfortunately, they're not as cheap (in fact, can be 2x as expensive as their consumer counterparts for the latest capacity).
Consumer disks are fine for backup purposes though, and this can save you a considerable amount of funds, particularly if your capacity requirements are high (i.e. eSATA card + Port Multiplier based external enclosure; example kit (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816111136&cm_re=tr4mp-_-16-111-136-_-Product)).
There are some inexpensive products that claim RAID 5, but be careful. Some are software based, which should never be used for this level (no solution to the "write hole issue" associated with parity based arrays). Others use very inexpensive hardware RAID controllers (aka RoC = RAID on a Chip). They're slow for primary usage, and is why they're cheap (compromise on performance vs. proper RAID cards).
If on a budget you could go with RAID-Z, it involves switching to the ZFS file system. RAID-Z1 apparently offers similar performance to RAID5. Read this thread (http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1135718) for further insight.
This can get complicated on the software end though, and not recommended for those that aren't comfortable with the additional complexity (patches for OS X or via VM), particularly for a DAS system (has more merit with NAS or SAN IMO).
So I'd stick with a 3rd party hardware RAID card, assuming this is actually needed, enterprise disks and any enclosures/mounting hardware necessary. Much simpler in terms of software (install the drivers, and any interface software that's required to access the card settings), and the hardware aspect isn't that difficult either.
I would get an SSD for the OS and use the 3x 7200rpm Disks in RAID5.
RAID5 is great for storing uncompressed video data and in your case would offer protection against a single drive failure.
Most cards don't deal with consumer grade disks very well (ATTO and Area definitely don't).
But consumer disks are fine for backup purposed (i.e via eSATA and PM enclosures) due to the lower duty cycle (where you can cut costs effectively, and not endanger the data).
or Just RAID5 with 3x HDD's and partition the RAID volume.
I wouldn't do this if both partitions are to be used simultaneously (i.e. primary data one one partition, scratch data on the other).
The most recommend cards right now are the Areca 6g 1880 series or the new ATTO 6G series. For your needs something like the ARC-1880-i SAS 6G RAID Controller would suffice if you don't plan to connect external RAID/Storage solution.
Those are the best recommendations as far as brand and series per. As to a specific model, it will depend on the specifics, particularly for growth (i.e 8 ports may be outgrown in under 3 years, so getting a card with sufficient ports to last that long would be cheaper in the long run - just add disks and enclosures as necessary).
Sorry should have been more clear (like I said I'm dumb) I have a 500GB Boot drive that lives independently from the (3) 1TB drives RAIDED together via the OS.
A separate boot disk is advisable, as you still have a working OS if the array goes down (allows you to access the card, use the browser to search for help, or deal with Support from the card manufacturer if needed).
And ALL data (3.5TB's) is backed up by an external 4TB Time Machine RAID (2 drives @ 2TB each)...which is connected via 2 eSATA cables via the eSATA PCI Card I bought from OWC...which I guess is actually RAIDed by the OS as well.
That backup solution is a RAID 0. The overall backup solution will almost certainly need to change in order to be sufficient for the primary storage pool you'll end up with.
Not sure what you are looking at, since 3 drives is sort of an odd combination. I have a 2009/2010 Mac Pro Nehalem, running the apple sas card for the 4 internal bays (yes I know they make adapters to use 3rd party cards), and the performance is fair, not great but fair. About 300Mb/s read/write with 4 WD Black edition drives (1tb each). Externally, running an Areca 1680x card, with a 8 drive ProAvio chassis, 8 SAS Seagate 15k7 drives (450GB) which gives close to 900MB/s. I have tried multiple cards over the years, nano and I have exchanged lots of posts/messages. Email/PM me with specific questions and I will try and help you. Beware of most of these 3rd party slot adapters/etc. they are more hassle than they are worth.
I've not heard or seen any issues with the MaxUpgrades kit.
As per Apple's card, I'm no fan of it, particularly due to the cost/performance ratio.
BTW, the OP only has 2 posts at the time of writting this, so returning a PM isn't possible yet (needs to have 5 posts IIRC). email would work if you have that enabled.
more...
davidjacobs21
Mar 28, 10:42 AM
can run tiny umbrella on an ipad 2. I tried to save shsh blobs and nothing happens. I did this on my iphoen last month and it worked fine
OrangeCuse44
Nov 11, 01:40 PM
Other than the obvious source (iTunes), is there anywhere else to download high quality music videos for less money/free? Since I can no longer find $200 iTunes gift cards on eBay for $70, I'm looking for alternative methods. Thanks.
more...
bbydon
Jan 10, 12:37 PM
when i saw this i read about the patents at the same time....so it seemed credible.
Doctor Q
Feb 8, 11:04 AM
You can now use the [Resolved] prefix in most forums to flag your own threads when the issue raised by the thread has been resolved, the question has been answered, the problem has been solved, or the equivalent. It's especially useful in the Mac Basics and Help forum.
The [Resolved] prefix does not mean that the thread is closed or that others shouldn't post, just that you don't consider the thread to be waiting for resolution of the issue, question, or problem. You can also think of it as a thank-you flag when you've gotten the help you needed. It doesn't make sense to use [Resolved] for certain types of threads, such as open-ended discussions and current events, so use it only where it's suitable.
To change the prefix of a thread that you started:
kate middleton wedding dress
The [Resolved] prefix does not mean that the thread is closed or that others shouldn't post, just that you don't consider the thread to be waiting for resolution of the issue, question, or problem. You can also think of it as a thank-you flag when you've gotten the help you needed. It doesn't make sense to use [Resolved] for certain types of threads, such as open-ended discussions and current events, so use it only where it's suitable.
To change the prefix of a thread that you started:
Illuminated
Apr 20, 07:21 PM
too much Mary Jane huh?
IJ Reilly
Sep 29, 10:23 AM
Export to Quicktime presentation, install Quicktime on PCs.
edit: kayjprod beat me to it.
No actually I did, several posts earlier. ;)
Anyway, very good idea about the Keynote player for Windows. Listen up, Apple!
edit: kayjprod beat me to it.
No actually I did, several posts earlier. ;)
Anyway, very good idea about the Keynote player for Windows. Listen up, Apple!
rossagrant
Apr 21, 04:24 AM
Hi all,
Just incase anyone stumbles across this thread when they are having similar issues I wanted to post an update.
It sounds so simple but I think my wake issues may have actually just been down to weak batteries in my keyboard.
After 10.6.7 some people were reporting that they were getting the wrong battery life metering for wireless devices. Some people had their power levels stuck at 100% even though the batteries had previously been showing 50% depletion before updating to 10.6.7
My keyboard was showing 46% yesterday but I thought to eliminate the possibility of the mac pro waking due to a lost keyboard connection due to weak batteries, I changed them out for fresh batteries.
My mac went to sleep last night and slept the whole night, until I woke it this morning.
I'll try it again later but I'm pretty certain that's all it was.
Oh well, at least I've got a freshly installed OS and clean running machine now, even though all I actually needed to do was swap some batteries! :)
Just incase anyone stumbles across this thread when they are having similar issues I wanted to post an update.
It sounds so simple but I think my wake issues may have actually just been down to weak batteries in my keyboard.
After 10.6.7 some people were reporting that they were getting the wrong battery life metering for wireless devices. Some people had their power levels stuck at 100% even though the batteries had previously been showing 50% depletion before updating to 10.6.7
My keyboard was showing 46% yesterday but I thought to eliminate the possibility of the mac pro waking due to a lost keyboard connection due to weak batteries, I changed them out for fresh batteries.
My mac went to sleep last night and slept the whole night, until I woke it this morning.
I'll try it again later but I'm pretty certain that's all it was.
Oh well, at least I've got a freshly installed OS and clean running machine now, even though all I actually needed to do was swap some batteries! :)
ericstjohn
Apr 27, 10:00 PM
Hi. I'm wondering if mixing and matching even Apple production apps affects their compatibility? Moving "up" to a Mac has been a bubble-buster since I discovered the dark side of legacy software and machines in an "upgraded to Intel" world.:mad:
I have a "Late '05" 2.3 dual core PPC 10.5.8 Leopard that came loaded from eBay with all the bells and whistles, assembled, apparently, from a grab bag and I have no disks for the uninstalling and reinstalling tricks.
FCP is version 5.0.4, Compressor is 2.0.1, Logic Studio is 8.0.1, iDVD is 7.0.4 and DVD Studio is 3.0.2. (Do all these fit together? Looks like a production suite made from the parts box. LOL!)
I have Toast 10 Titanium too.
The reason I mention that is, I'm having not only exporting problems with Compressor, quality problems exporting in Quicktime Conversion to AVI, but also burning issues with DVDs that won't play in the living room deck.
Compressor 2 gives me the now-famous Cannot Submit Batch message. I've tried all sorts of fixes -yes, even the Compressor Repair that's made for Compressor 3 and above. Again the legacy thing. After googling for more tricks, I have discovered Compressor 2's "preference file" is missing from Home>Library>Preferences. Hmmm. Maybe a new Compressor is in order? Which version should I install since I have all this mixed bag of wares?
So, Toast won't play, iDVD won't play, Compressor won't compress and AVI from Quicktime Conversion looks like crap. (I understand Toast 9 has good reports but since they "improved" it, I have no use for it. Again, the legacy.)
iDVD let me assemble and burn a DVD but it doesn't play properly. I made an .iso in there and burned it with Disk Utility. The deck plays the menu but I won't know anything else until I find the flippin' remote! That's something to remember though: burning in Disk Utility. That and finding the remote.
I can't even use DVD Studio until I figure out how to import and burn iDVD projects because of the issues between FCP and Compressor. So we're back to square one. FCP>Compressor won't work and it messes me up with FCP>DVDSP. Too bad. I like the Apple production apps but I'm about ready to jam CS4...
I have a "Late '05" 2.3 dual core PPC 10.5.8 Leopard that came loaded from eBay with all the bells and whistles, assembled, apparently, from a grab bag and I have no disks for the uninstalling and reinstalling tricks.
FCP is version 5.0.4, Compressor is 2.0.1, Logic Studio is 8.0.1, iDVD is 7.0.4 and DVD Studio is 3.0.2. (Do all these fit together? Looks like a production suite made from the parts box. LOL!)
I have Toast 10 Titanium too.
The reason I mention that is, I'm having not only exporting problems with Compressor, quality problems exporting in Quicktime Conversion to AVI, but also burning issues with DVDs that won't play in the living room deck.
Compressor 2 gives me the now-famous Cannot Submit Batch message. I've tried all sorts of fixes -yes, even the Compressor Repair that's made for Compressor 3 and above. Again the legacy thing. After googling for more tricks, I have discovered Compressor 2's "preference file" is missing from Home>Library>Preferences. Hmmm. Maybe a new Compressor is in order? Which version should I install since I have all this mixed bag of wares?
So, Toast won't play, iDVD won't play, Compressor won't compress and AVI from Quicktime Conversion looks like crap. (I understand Toast 9 has good reports but since they "improved" it, I have no use for it. Again, the legacy.)
iDVD let me assemble and burn a DVD but it doesn't play properly. I made an .iso in there and burned it with Disk Utility. The deck plays the menu but I won't know anything else until I find the flippin' remote! That's something to remember though: burning in Disk Utility. That and finding the remote.
I can't even use DVD Studio until I figure out how to import and burn iDVD projects because of the issues between FCP and Compressor. So we're back to square one. FCP>Compressor won't work and it messes me up with FCP>DVDSP. Too bad. I like the Apple production apps but I'm about ready to jam CS4...
Chaszmyr
Mar 24, 05:56 AM
No, but bug fixes and stuff are never a bad thing :)
I would just prefer those bug fixes be in 1.1 instead :p
I would just prefer those bug fixes be in 1.1 instead :p
upsguy27
Jun 19, 02:35 PM
Does it have the paperwork?
Would you be willing to outright sell the Touch for enough to cover the $199 subsidized iPhone? (assuming you are eligible *ducks*)
Sorry, I can't do that. I'm locked into Alltel for the next two years. :(
Would you be willing to outright sell the Touch for enough to cover the $199 subsidized iPhone? (assuming you are eligible *ducks*)
Sorry, I can't do that. I'm locked into Alltel for the next two years. :(